The Land of the Thunder Dragon: Bhutan. Located between the giants of India and China, this small kingdom in the Himalayas used to be one of the most isolated nations on the planet, cut off from the outside world for centuries in an effort to protect its ancient traditions, identity, and unique culture.

Bhutan started opening up in the seventies, and this Buddhist nation has changed more in the last decade than in the past 1,000 years. Radio arrived in Bhutan in 1973. Television and the Internet were introduced in 1999. The first daily newspaper began distribution in 2008. This is a country where Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross National Product. This definitely is not an ordinary place.

I have heard so much about mysterious Bhutan, and I have wanted to come for so long. There are no restrictions on traveling to Bhutan, but traveling on a budget—as I usually do—is not a possibility. The government requires that trips to Bhutan must be arranged by a local tour company. There is a pre-fixed per-day rate that starts at $250, but to be fair, everything (a nice hotel, meals, transportation, a guide, etc.) is included in the price. So it is actually not that much . . . unless you are a backpacker.

After 12 years of traveling, I decided to treat myself and visit Bhutan. I could only afford six days, but at least I could get a taste of the Himalayan nation.

Even the flight from Kathmandu, Nepal to Paro, Bhutan was memorable. Druk Air is the official airline and the only carrier flying to and from Bhutan. I was expecting an old and rundown plane—as I’ve ridden before when I’ve taken official airlines in third-world countries. Yet, the Druk Air plane seemed brand new. It was packed with tourists from all over the world, mostly over 50 years old. But I was the only backpacker on the flight.

I don’t know how long the flight was, but it felt like 20 minutes max. The view from the air was extraordinary. We flew along the Himalayan range. The pilot indicated the names of the peaks on our left, and we passed three of the world’s highest mountains, including Everest!

Gigantic white peaks soared toward the sky. The mountains were so high that the clouds didn’t reach their summits. It was as if the peaks were actually rising from the clouds into the sky. They looked magnificent and imposing . . . and also not so far from the plane.
I was lucky enough to get a window seat and have a perfect view of the whole range. Two Chinese ladies sat next to me. In front of me were three more Chinese tourists. All of them were armed with professional cameras with lenses so big that they looked like they were paparazzi.

The Himalayas have a special effect on me; they can move me to tears and make me feel deeply connected with nature. But they also seemed to have an effect on the Chinese tourists, who couldn’t stop frenetically taking photos: snap, snap, snap. The flight attendant asked them to keep their seat belts fastened, but they didn’t pay attention, continuing to point their cameras out the window.

“Sorry, sorry,” the passenger sitting next to me apologized. She tried to open some space so her friend could get closer to the window and take a picture. I was squeezed down in my seat.

One of the Chinese tourists in the front seat took a photo of me, and then the other three pointed at me. I became the target of their cameras. They were so excited to take my picture that a French tourist in the back seat asked me if I was a celebrity.

“No, I don’t know why they are taking my photo. I guess I may look different,” I responded.

“You may want to consider moving to China then,” the French man said.

The Chinese paparazzi were giggling. Since they didn’t speak any English, I would never know why they wanted to take my picture.

“We will be landing shortly,” announced the captain.

Suddenly the white peaks vanished, and lush green hills appeared around us. We had arrived in Paro, Bhutan.

The weather was cool, and the sky was clear and bright blue just as in Tibet.

“Bhutan, a Destination for the New Millennium” read a sign at the entrance of the airport.

Inside the terminal, Bhutanese men wore ghos, a knee-length robe with a tight cloth belt around the waist. Women wore kiras—floor-length skirts of colorful patterns with loose, long-sleeved, silky blouses covered by a short jacket. I got the exotic Bhutanese visa stamped on my passport and was ready to go.

Outside the terminal, Lotay—from the travel agency—was waiting for me. I have been exchanging emails with him for several months. I could finally put a face to the name. Lotay is a tall and slim 32-year-old Bhutanese man with impeccable English. His thin mustache made him look older than he really is. He spoke softly. He wore a light-colored gho, high socks, and formal shoes. Lotay did his MBA in sustainable development in Boston. When he finished school in the United States, he came back to Bhutan and started a tourist company with his brother.

One of the things that attracted me to “Bridge to Bhutan” tour company was their commitment to a sustainable Bhutan. They promised to offer a unique experience to the traveler and connect her with the local culture, while protecting the local traditions and the environment. I don’t like tours, but if I was going to take one, at least I could take one that would do good for the local community.

Lotay took me to the hotel and introduced me to his brother Fin, who is two years younger and who also speaks impeccable English. He went to school in the US and lived there for seven years as well. Although brothers, they looked completely different. Lotay was dark with prominent cheeks, while Fin had fair skin and a round face. Lotay also seemed a bit shy and formal, while Fin was very outgoing. They complimented each other.

Lotay was going to take care of me during my stay. Fin was in charge of Robert from San Francisco, who was also visiting Bhutan for the first time.

Fin walked me to my room, and I was blown away. It was large and beautiful, with a bath and a shower (HOT, finally!) and a small living room. What a treat after days in the Tibetan wilderness! Suddenly, the $250 I was paying per day didn’t seem that much.

We had some tea, and then Lotay was ready to show me around as much as he could. What a difference from Tibet! Whereas Nima was not interested in explaining much to me about Tibetan culture, Lotay bombarded me with information. I was thrilled. He answered all my questions and then went beyond them.

Situated in a valley on the banks of a river, Paro is a small city with just a few streets. On the way to the national museum, Lotay brought us through the main street, which was lined with wooden houses and shops painted bright colors.

We reached the top of the hill, where a rounded building that now serves as a museum lies. Built in the seventeenth century, it used to be a fortress. The thick walls now protect thangkas, collections of stamps, ancient Buddha figures and sculptures, stuffed animals including snow leopards, old religious instruments, and weapons.

Then, we drove to the Dzong, a landmark in Paro. Although the seventeenth century fortress was already closed, we had the chance to take a quick look at the stunning building that now serves as a monastery and administrative office. The massive complex is probably the first thing that comes into sight in Paro, followed by the round museum. I probably saw more monks hiking up the steep hill to the Dzong than at many of the monasteries I visited in Tibet!

After a quick visit to the Dzong, we went to watch some Bhutanese archers. Archery is very popular in Bhutan.

“Is it true that the Bhutanese were very surprised when the king went to the countryside to encourage them to vote in the elections?” I asked Lotay on our way to the archery field.

A transition from absolute monarchy to constitutional democracy started last year with Bhutan’s first parliamentary elections. I’d heard that the king was trying to give power to the Bhutanese people, but that they couldn’t understand why the king wouldn’t want to rule them; they felt happy with the monarchy.

Lotay confirmed that it was a big shock for the Bhutanese people, especially those in the countryside. He said that the king explained that he wanted to give the people power now, at a peaceful time, rather than waiting for the people to revolutionize for it in the future. The king considered modernization inevitable and wanted to make sure that the transition was done peacefully to avoid civil wars and rebellions as had happened in other countries.

After starting the democratization process, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck gave the throne to his son, Jigme Khesar Wangchuck. At 28 years old, he is one of the youngest kings in the world. He lived in the United States and graduated from Oxford. Now, the new monarch has continued his father’s efforts to modernize and democratize Bhutan. There are two political parties, and both support the monarchy. Amidst globalization, the government and the monarchy promote the changes as long as the Buddhist and Bhutanese culture are preserved. It seems they have found that perfect balance.

Actually, some of pillars that sustain the “Gross National Happiness” are honest governance, protection of traditions, preservation of the environment, and sustainable development.

We returned to the hotel to meet with Robert and Fin for dinner. While we waited for our food, Fin and Lotay offered us tea and snacks. I was afraid that if I kept eating nuts and chocolates, I would be full by the time the dinner was ready.

The food was worth the wait. Dinner was another treat after ten days in Tibet! I savored and devoured fresh, tasteful vegetarian dishes, the traditional red rice, and a salad with walnuts. Then the waiter brought French wine to the table.

“To celebrate Thanksgiving,” said Fin.

Robert and I were surprised. We definitely had thoughtful and caring hosts! This was Thanksgiving Bhutanese style!

I haven’t even had time to check my Bhutan trip itinerary, but I don’t think I need to worry about it. I feel confident that Lotay and Fin are the kind of people who will show me the best of their country. I can finally relax.

I am happy to have come to Bhutan. I am starting to understand why Business Week rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia, and the eighth happiest nation in the world!

Tomorrow, I will start exploring the wonders of the enigmatic Buddhist kingdom nestled in the Himalayas.